Ischian Excursion

The Romans called it Aenaria, Virgil named it Inarime, we call it Ischia. In late May this year I took a gorgeous day trip to this volcanic island not far from Naples. On a practical level (I didn’t keep my receipt but think) it was around €20 each way on the hydrofoil. There are the full… Read More Ischian Excursion

October 6, 2018 apollard7 Comments

Toxic

In November 2015 I took the train from Naples to Caserta to visit the Royal Palace of Caserta which had been built to house the Bourbon Kings of Naples. It was a beautiful and restful outing. What I had not realised at the time is that I was visiting an infamous area to Italians. Caserta… Read More Toxic

December 8, 2016 apollard11 Comments

Reggia Di Caserta

It’s November and I take the train from Naples. The Reggia and its 120 ha of land is across the road from the station so there are no challenges finding it. I walk across the Piazza which clearly has the bones of a formal garden with boxed hedging but has been let go. The grasses… Read More Reggia Di Caserta

January 26, 2016October 23, 2016 apollard5 Comments

Getting Over Myself in Naples

There is a strong police and military presence in Naples. In the stations, at the shops, by the tourist destinations. And there is a continual trickle of approaches made by beggars, vendors of cigarette lighters, and those that want to warmly befriend you (for I hate to think what). It feels like seagulls at the… Read More Getting Over Myself in Naples

November 15, 2015March 13, 2016 apollard6 Comments

The Darkness & the Light of Napoli

It’s day three here for me in Naples and the descriptive words are only beginning to come in fragments now. Naples has me choked up. I am at once disgusted at the filth, shocked at the poverty and in love with the vibrancy and the monumental beauty. There are dichotomies all around me. There are… Read More The Darkness & the Light of Napoli

November 10, 2015March 13, 2016 apollard3 Comments